Friday, January 27, 2012

AIDEN BY YOO F/W 2009 COLLECTION


AIDEN BY YOO F/W 2009 COLLECTION

Concept : Little boy wearing his father’s suit, and trying to act like a grown man.
With this concept, I developed six themes such as: the boy pretending to be a fashion model, and pretending to go an evening party. These themes relate to each of my looks.
My collection is all about proportion and mixing together of wide, loose and oversize WITH fitted and shrunken. And I add softness with fun and unexpected details.
 
My first look is the boy pretending to go on a business trip.
This look has all the functions for traveling.
Pin dot jacquard sports coat with a detachable hoodie is hand tailored.
Inside, there are many functional pockets such as a pocket for the airline ticket, passport, and pen. White cotton shirt jacket with double collar stand, so you can tie it or just leave it. And, the side seam is adjustable with a button to tighten/loosen.
Cotton twill pant with slant pockets has embroidery logo tape in the under waistband to create a men’s trouser look. And, one of my signature details is that the first buttonhole on all pants flies is royal blue, which is the pop color in this collection

2nd look is the boy pretending to go on Christmas date.
Organic cotton knit chunky sweater has circle cables in the front with blue grey wool flannel baggy pants. Another signature detail is that all wool pants come with self fabric belt.
Winter grey virgin wool coat has a front hidden placket and some padding details on the edge of collar, pocket, flap, and back yoke to emphasize the softness

3rd look is about the little boy pretending to be a Wall Street guy. With this theme, I design the suit. I think that there are many standard rules in fashion. But, as designer, I would like to move away from those standards especially in menswear. For example, many people think that pocket bag should be inside of jacket. But it doesn’t have to be. So I designed a visible pocket bag suit and this suit is 100% hand tailored with fully canvas inside.
Underneath is the white ball point cotton pique shirt with a hidden placket and round collar, which is one the key items for this collection.

4th look is the little boy pretending to be a college student.
My customer can wear this look in both casual and formal situations.
This is my take on a modern cashmere duffel coat with double breasts welt closing details. And bound buttonholes on the sleeves and flap. And, inside there is a grey ball point pique shirt with a two in one cashmere cricket cardigan. It looks like a v neck sweater and cardigan in one. It’s connected together at the side seams. So, my customers simply pull it over their head. And on the front and sleeve plackets, I have royal blue grosgrain. Everything is functional. This cardigan comes in two different color ways, which is blue and soft gray.


The 5th look is the pretending to be a fashion model. This look is one of my editorial looks. The chunky oversize hand knit jacket is a merino wool and mohair plied together with random cables all over in the front and back. And this is a fitted and shrunken shawl collar vest which has quilting details on the back. This Long shirt has an extended stand detail that can be worn down as a bow tie. Grey 140 superfine wool slack pants with my signature details, button hole, and self fabric belt.

My last look is something my customer could wear at a cocktail party and feel confident in all night long. The detail I used in this jacket is a type of double feature with a folded hem to add some softness.  The collar and lapels are attached on the bottom layer.  The under layer is  hand tailored.  The shirt is white cotton pique button front with a round collar. The pants are black wool flannel low crotch pants with a circular panel in the back. 

And I just want to add that in this collection I really tried to mesh traditional hand tailoring and softness together and make it modern by using some details that are just slightly odd or unexpected but fun at the same time.

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